Joy. The first structures for the layout arrived yesterday. Dop
ordered a couple of "homes" made by Woodland Scenics. I am impressed
with the quality of these, they are incredibly detailed and fun models. I
snapped a couple pictures of the items still in their boxes.
Disappointment. The package from Active Powersports arrived today. I was pretty excited and opened the box to find a lot fewer items than I recalled ordering. There was no packing slip so I went through the original order confirmation list a few times and discovered that the order is short 10 items. :( <sigh> I kinda knew this might happen based on the BBB reports found online but had really hoped it would be correct. This seems to be a pretty common occurrence with Active Powersports. Since this company apparently doesn't have a telephone, I sent off an email, as their website instructs us to do, in hopes that something positive might come from it. I also tried to send a message through their website which is what I did a week ago that may have magically moved the order to 'shipped'. However, it turns out the website message system is only accessible through the mobile version of their website. I haven't been able to copy the steps I use on my phone to access the message system on their website through my computer. <double sigh>. So I send them messages through the phone too.
If I don't hear anything from Active after Monday, I'm filing a BBB complaint and contesting the charges with the credit card company. Update: It is late Tuesday night and not a peep from Active. I filed a BBB complaint. Going to order the missing parts from somewhere else.
Here is what did arrive:
Not enough of the right parts to be able to assemble any of the layout so that activity isn't happening this weekend. However, I can play around with the turnouts and do some investigating into how the Kato turnouts operate and take some measurements of voltages and play around with the Kato unitrack connectors and figure out how to make wiring extenders. That should keep me busy for a bit.
Here is the typical Kato turnout switch. It snaps onto the side of the Kato powerpack and pulls power through the snaps. The powerpack delivers a constant 13.8v DC through the snaps.
You
change the direction of the turnout by moving the lever to the up or
down position. It is a momentary contact switch. The turnout doesn't
actually change state until the lever is in the middle of travel and you
don't want to keep it in the middle as that would potentially burn out
the turnout motor/solenoid. I really wanted to know how the switch lever
worked and I wanted to measure the dimensions of the connector plug and
pins which meant taking apart the switch module.
First
thing you need to do is slice the front stick down the middle or try
and remove the sticker in one piece. Then unscrew the two snaps on the
side and carefully lift off the case half. You should see something like
the above picture because the lever and roller ball will most likely
fall out. The picture to the right shows everything in the proper place.
I have to admit I'm a little disappointed in what was inside. I had hoped for something... more? I have to admit the mechanism is elegant in its simplicity. Two bare copper wires that come out of the plug module and run through the rocker piece. As the lever arm moves up or down it pushes or pulls the rocker piece which bends the copper wires to contact the metal poles and then releases them once the lever is at the end of its travel. Changing the polarity of the voltage to the turnout determines which position the turnout will move to.
The turnouts are sealed and I haven't taken one apart yet to see how it works. However, I did notice a peculiar behavior with the turnout which I captured in the below video. Apparently the turnout is wired to pass electricity to only the track it is set to switch to. I'm not sure if I understand the implications of this "feature" yet but on the surface it seems useful for a switching yard especially if running DC with multiple locomotives.
Kato power connectors
Kato uses a two pole electrical connector on their turnouts and powerpacks. I wanted to find the connector and the crimp pins/receivers so I could make extension cables and adapter cables. Turns out that isn't such an easy task. There is so much incomplete information on the internet about this subject. I figured the only way to know for sure is to measure the actual pins and connectors. So while I had the turnout switch dismantled, I pulled the connector apart and extracted one of the wires and proceeded to measure everything with a caliper.
Kato appears to use what is called mini Tamiya power connectors. I use to race RC cars and I can confirm that the Kato connectors are smaller versions of what Tamiya uses on their battery packs. If you search for mini Tamiya connectors you will find lots of hits. Be careful though because many of the items out there aren't truly compatible. The issue is the Kato mini Tamiya connectors use pins/receivers with a 1.3mm diameter. Most of what is for sale are 2mm diameter pins/receivers.
I tried to find the actual source for the power connectors and my research led me to several manufacturers but the product was either discontinued or had the 2mm pins. There is some speculation that Tamiya makes the connectors themselves. You can find mini Tamiya pigtails at hobby shops that will work or buy the Kato cables but those options can get expensive.
I managed to stumble on a AlibabaExpress site that sells 100 pairs of what appears to be the true mini Tamiya plugs. The specs they provide look right. I order a package for $10. It might be a month before I see them and I'll post an update with how they work out.
Engine drop trick
While researching DCC and sound module installation, I kept coming across references to the "drop" method of removing the locomotive shell. I finally found a video showing what the drop method involves. Using the case lid from a locomotive storage case, sit the locomotive inside and lift the front up and rest the edge of the shell on the edge of the case. Then lift that edge of the case up and let it drop. Bingo, the shell will be loose. You can do it on the other end too if needed.
I opened up the Kato ES44 "GEVO" locomotive and like the turnout switch, the inside of the locomotive was not what I expected. I should have taken pictures as I doubt I could do a good job describing it. I'll post some pics when I open it again to install a DCC sound module.
Disappointment. The package from Active Powersports arrived today. I was pretty excited and opened the box to find a lot fewer items than I recalled ordering. There was no packing slip so I went through the original order confirmation list a few times and discovered that the order is short 10 items. :( <sigh> I kinda knew this might happen based on the BBB reports found online but had really hoped it would be correct. This seems to be a pretty common occurrence with Active Powersports. Since this company apparently doesn't have a telephone, I sent off an email, as their website instructs us to do, in hopes that something positive might come from it. I also tried to send a message through their website which is what I did a week ago that may have magically moved the order to 'shipped'. However, it turns out the website message system is only accessible through the mobile version of their website. I haven't been able to copy the steps I use on my phone to access the message system on their website through my computer. <double sigh>. So I send them messages through the phone too.
If I don't hear anything from Active after Monday, I'm filing a BBB complaint and contesting the charges with the credit card company. Update: It is late Tuesday night and not a peep from Active. I filed a BBB complaint. Going to order the missing parts from somewhere else.
Here is what did arrive:
Not enough of the right parts to be able to assemble any of the layout so that activity isn't happening this weekend. However, I can play around with the turnouts and do some investigating into how the Kato turnouts operate and take some measurements of voltages and play around with the Kato unitrack connectors and figure out how to make wiring extenders. That should keep me busy for a bit.
Here is the typical Kato turnout switch. It snaps onto the side of the Kato powerpack and pulls power through the snaps. The powerpack delivers a constant 13.8v DC through the snaps.
I have to admit I'm a little disappointed in what was inside. I had hoped for something... more? I have to admit the mechanism is elegant in its simplicity. Two bare copper wires that come out of the plug module and run through the rocker piece. As the lever arm moves up or down it pushes or pulls the rocker piece which bends the copper wires to contact the metal poles and then releases them once the lever is at the end of its travel. Changing the polarity of the voltage to the turnout determines which position the turnout will move to.
The turnouts are sealed and I haven't taken one apart yet to see how it works. However, I did notice a peculiar behavior with the turnout which I captured in the below video. Apparently the turnout is wired to pass electricity to only the track it is set to switch to. I'm not sure if I understand the implications of this "feature" yet but on the surface it seems useful for a switching yard especially if running DC with multiple locomotives.
Kato power connectors
Kato uses a two pole electrical connector on their turnouts and powerpacks. I wanted to find the connector and the crimp pins/receivers so I could make extension cables and adapter cables. Turns out that isn't such an easy task. There is so much incomplete information on the internet about this subject. I figured the only way to know for sure is to measure the actual pins and connectors. So while I had the turnout switch dismantled, I pulled the connector apart and extracted one of the wires and proceeded to measure everything with a caliper.
Kato appears to use what is called mini Tamiya power connectors. I use to race RC cars and I can confirm that the Kato connectors are smaller versions of what Tamiya uses on their battery packs. If you search for mini Tamiya connectors you will find lots of hits. Be careful though because many of the items out there aren't truly compatible. The issue is the Kato mini Tamiya connectors use pins/receivers with a 1.3mm diameter. Most of what is for sale are 2mm diameter pins/receivers.
I tried to find the actual source for the power connectors and my research led me to several manufacturers but the product was either discontinued or had the 2mm pins. There is some speculation that Tamiya makes the connectors themselves. You can find mini Tamiya pigtails at hobby shops that will work or buy the Kato cables but those options can get expensive.
I managed to stumble on a AlibabaExpress site that sells 100 pairs of what appears to be the true mini Tamiya plugs. The specs they provide look right. I order a package for $10. It might be a month before I see them and I'll post an update with how they work out.
Engine drop trick
While researching DCC and sound module installation, I kept coming across references to the "drop" method of removing the locomotive shell. I finally found a video showing what the drop method involves. Using the case lid from a locomotive storage case, sit the locomotive inside and lift the front up and rest the edge of the shell on the edge of the case. Then lift that edge of the case up and let it drop. Bingo, the shell will be loose. You can do it on the other end too if needed.
I opened up the Kato ES44 "GEVO" locomotive and like the turnout switch, the inside of the locomotive was not what I expected. I should have taken pictures as I doubt I could do a good job describing it. I'll post some pics when I open it again to install a DCC sound module.
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